Two Days in Edinburgh

Bagpipes. Men in kilts. Craggy mountains. Sheep grazing on heather. Shortbread. Haggis. Castles.

These are what come to mind when I think of Scotland.

I’ve traveled around the world and have a perpetually growing list of places I’d like to see. Most destinations I check off the list after visiting, having been there done that, no need to return. Not so, Scotland. Since my first visit there ten years ago, Scotland has continued to haunt my memory and beckon to me to return.

Edinburgh street, heavy with advertisements for Fringe Festival shows.

It’s hard to definitively identify the source of Scotland’s magnetism. Perhaps it’s the castles, imperial and grand, holding close the secrets of their gruesome, violent pasts. Perhaps it’s the rugged, wild landscape of the Highlands, thick with sheep, heather, and deep glacial lochs, and not another soul around for miles. Perhaps it’s the people with their warmth and fetching accents. I’ve also been known to swoon just a little over the sound of pipes playing, particularly when a man in a kilt is behind them.

A church spire and the Sir Walter Scott monument

Whatever its appeal, Scotland has firmly taken hold of my heart. My long-planned, highly-anticipated trip there this past August couldn’t come soon enough. Weeks before my departure, I would let my mind wander during work meetings to thoughts of my trip. What clothes should I pack? What did I need to get to take with me? How many castles could we see in two weeks?

Centuries-old buildings stack up on top of each other in downtown Edinburgh.

My aunt and uncle were my most excellent travel companions. They flew from Utah to meet me in London, nearly missing our connecting flight to Edinburgh. Their luggage did miss the flight and while we waited in Edinburgh’s compact airport for it to arrive, who should I spot in the same baggage area, waiting for his luggage from the British Airways flight, but Martin Freeman, the actor made famous for his roles as Waston in the BBC series Sherlock and as the title character in the Hobbit movies. He looked just the same in real life as he does on-screen and yes, he is rather short.

I was too star-struck to tell him what a big fan I am and ask for a photo together so instead I took this picture of him, paparazzi-style, with my phone while pretending to send a text message. This was obviously an auspicious beginning to the trip!

Edinburgh was crisp and blustery and mostly sunny, perfectly autumnal. The annual Fringe Festival (among other festivals) was on and it seemed that everywhere we walked, street performers were entertaining while their theatrical colleagues distributed leaflets by the score, advertising their shows. 

Fringe leaflets cover a wall on the Royal Mile.

We walked miles each day, self-righteously resisting the lure of the souvenir shops lining the Royal Mile that sold everything from fine cashmere scarves (they were hocking a lot of wool in general) in various plaid colors to miniature bottles of whisky.

Looking out over the city from Edinburgh Castle.

We toured Edinburgh Castle and saw the room where Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to her son, James, who would later rule both Scotland and England. We also saw the Honors of Scotland—a crown, scepter, and a long, finely engraved sword dating to the late 15th and early 16th centuries that were used as coronation regalia—and learned about the surprisingly tolerable conditions of prisoners of war who were held in the castle cellars during the 18th century. 

Entering the castle!

Suits of armor stand guard in the castle.

The highlight of Edinburgh, without a doubt, was the Royal Military Tattoo, a magnificent show put on nightly during the month of August featuring bands and dance troops from around the world. It’s staged in front of Edinburgh castle and starts at dusk. The stands were filled to capacity with people from at least two dozen countries. (We knew because the emcee had people cheer when their country was called out.)

Scenes from the stands as we waited for the show to start.

There were lots and lots of bagpipes. There were traditional dancers. There was a Bollywood-style song and dance number. There were military bands from the United States and China. There was a clever Chinese dance troop who converted the oversized water lilies they’d been gently waving around into two swirling, weaving dragons. There were drummers from Switzerland—oh the drummers! They were my favorite (aside from the bagpipes). You can watch their performance on YouTube. Prepare to be exceedingly entertained.

Pipers form a yin/yang symbol during the opening number.

And at the end, there were fireworks—fireworks!—shot off the castle ramparts, with the whole ensemble gathered in the arena and men in kilts playing bagpipes and even a youth choir singing at the castle gate. Ah Scotland, how I've missed you!